physical soil aspects- orchards

SOIL PHYSICAL
PROPERTIES:
Unless you have deeply ripped or leveled your soil, its texture, depth, rocks and layers probably remain much as they were when you acquired the land. You see these qualities only when digging ditches or basements, planting trees, or drilling fencepost holes.

You may not have a good idea of the full range of variation that may exist across the block. To avoid surprises, assess the top three feet of your soil during the years leading up to planting (this can be done any time).

Your soil may have significant layers with different textures, calcium cemented zones (caliche), rocky or gravelly layers, or compaction. If so, trees will be healthier and grow more evenly across the block if the soil is deeply cross-ripped, two or three feet deep, before planting. Ripping will mix the soil, improving potential root penetration. This ripping may also turn up many major tree roots, old pipes, car bumpers and boulders that should be removed to make tree planting quicker and easier.

Soil compaction is present in all orchards, no matter what soil texture you have (even coarse sand). Soil will re-compact within a few seasons after ripping. Every time you drive your tractor on moist soil, compaction layers form and intensify. You cannot avoid driving in your orchard, but you should attempt to always drive down the middle of the row, avoiding at least the first four feet out from the trees.

BACK TO SITE PREP:

SOIL PHYSICAL PROPERTIES: Unless you have deeply ripped or leveled your soil, its texture, depth, rocks and layers probably remain much as they were when you acquired the land. You see these qualities only when digging ditches or basements, planting trees, or drilling fencepost holes.
	You may not have a good idea of the full range of variation that may exist across the block. To avoid surprises, assess the top three feet of your soil during the years leading up to planting (this can be done any time).