APPLES- The 7 year-old Gala pictured above produces about 40-50 pounds of fruit yearly in a 10 x 4 foot space. It was planted on a Malling 9 root with the trunk at a sharp angle, instead of vertical, and the main limbs were pulled over to about a 45 degree angle in a "zig-zag" pattern in the "wall" of the tree. Any vigorous limb extending out from the tree structure is removed. Most of the weaker shoots are left uncut, and become productive apple producers for a few years, until removed to provide space for younger replacement wood. This training method is easy to learn and leads to easy care. Fruit production starts the season after planting. Pruning entails removing about 1/3 of the "old" wood each winter, and bending any new, replacement wood over to at least a 45 degree angle. Light penetration, blossom thinning, spraying and production is easy to maintain .

First, and most importantly, do not plant a fruit tree if you are not willing to care for it for many years.

When you move to a new home (and most do), will the tree be cared for after you leave? Most likely, not. There is great joy in consuming your own fruit, but some long-term effort is involved. Apples and pears may outlive YOU, so count on a long-term commitment.

When growing fruit trees- plant those that will remain small, using special rootstocks. (The variety's vigor and tree size is controlled by the root, fruit size and quality will be unaffected.) Small trees will be easier to thin, spray and prune, and will keep production within sensible limits.

The best apple rootstock choices are M9 or M26 for very small (7-10 foot, supported trees) or CG30 (a better replacement for M7) for a free standing 1/2 sized tree (12 ' wide, by 10-12 ' tall at maturity). Never plant a "seedling" or other full sized rootstock. They are slow to come into bearing, and hard to manage. "Mark" rootstocks are available, and produce a tree about the size of a M26, but do best on very good soil, and should be irrigated carefully during hot weather. If the store tries to sell you an un-named "semi-dwarf" ask for specifics, or keep looking for something better. That tree will be with you forever, and proper choices about rootstocks are critical. With M9 you can grow a single variety, which will produce about 80-100 fruit per tree at maturity. The tree will grow to about 8 feet high by about 7 feet or so across, if well tended and tied to a post. If you have a bit more room, try a M26 rootstock. You should still support this tree with a post, wall, or fence, but it will be about twice as large in tree volume as the M9. You may wish to bud more than one variety to limbs of these M26 rooted trees as they get older, you may not need the 2-3 boxes of fruit each one of these trees will produce.

As for varieties: There are hundreds of great apple varieties. Only a few dozen actually are good choices for whatever region you are in. The wonderful apple you remember from you childhood is worth looking for, but may not be as good as you remember. Remember- apples need cool conditions for storage. A box of fruit is too much for your 'fridge, so you may want to choose late maturing apples for your main crop varieties. They will keep for a few months or more in a cold (but not colder than 28F) garage. For example, Fuji, Cameo, Braeburn, and Granny Smith keep well and are easy to find. Many other varieties may be found, but few will keep well AND taste good. It is fun to try some tasty "heirloom" varieties, but most aren't actually as good "keepers" as modern varieties, despite what you might hear. Applesauce is great in moderation, but it may become tiresome as a storage method for some of the older, "good tasting", but sometimes poor keeping varieties.

Apple Varieties

PEARS - STONE FRUIT - SEEDLESS GRAPES - HARDY KIWI - IRRIGATION